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VNSVLE
Forum Moderator
1316 Posts
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 Posted - 13 Nov 2010 : 10:58:32 PM
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| I am with Mr Persistant on this one voodoo. The plastic one has lasted this long so if you go a VDO item you should get another 20 years out of it. |
What's the difference between understeer and oversteer?
Understeer is when the driver is scared.
Oversteer is when the passenger is scared. |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 14 Nov 2010 : 6:18:46 PM
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| yeah i get whereyour all coming from and its probably what ill end up doing. Cheers |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 16 Nov 2010 : 12:36:51 PM
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| so im buying a whooole lot of parts atm. got the 2 brand new rear brake discs and 3 sets of bushes. just bought a new sway bar set on ebay as well as a reco'd steering rack for only $210 plus 26 postage and also the new cog for the dash. waiting for it all to arrive but first im waiting to see how much i get paid so i can buy a torque wrench. suppose i need it for all the fittings. |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 20 Nov 2010 : 3:58:18 PM
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| i dont get the stalk return at all? theres probably a peice missing since i got it because i have never seen anything thats supposed to hit the stalk to return it. ill go to the wreckers when i get a chance and take a look at some of there columns to see what mines missing. |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 20 Nov 2010 : 5:55:13 PM
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| Once you see it, it will be very obvious what's missing. The return springs have been known to work loose with nothing more serious than old age. The mechanism pretty much hasn't changed since the earliest days of Holden production, only the frame that it sits in, and the connector attached to it. |
Edited by - Mechknight73 on 20 Nov 2010 5:55:56 PM |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 23 Nov 2010 : 4:54:26 PM
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| well finally god and just replaced the cog and had a test.. works beautifully. hopefully with a mates help i will get into changing over the steering rack tomorrow morning and then if he brings over some more jerry cans drop out the tank. :)still havent had the chance to go to the wreckers |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 23 Nov 2010 : 5:07:08 PM
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If you want some cheap "jerrycans" go to a panelbeater, a mechanical workshop, or anywhere that has chemicals in metal drums. Obviously you have to wash them out with some petrol, but they will do the job just as well as a lot of $40 jerry cans. The workshop concerned will be happy to offload them usually, as you'll be doing them a favour.
A couple of years ago, I "inherited" 100 litres of Avgas in 20 litre oil drums because it was from the ex- father-in-law's plane service. It lasted me about 6 weeks, as I was running a 30% mix of unleaded and Avgas in my one tonner at the time. |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 28 Nov 2010 : 1:27:03 PM
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| well i havent had time to do the fuel tank drop yet, but i have removed the front sway bar links (waiting for parts in mail) and replaced the bushes on the bar that connects both sides of thecar to the sway bars. didnt need to but repco gave me them instead of the actual ones i needed. so need to go back this week if i have the money and get the rest of my parts. also finally had a good chance to work on my rack and dropped it out in about 1 1/2 hours. decieded to replace the tie rod ends while its all in pieces just to be safe because i didnt get them on my recon rack. yesterday i also did the rear gearbox mount in about 30mins and just need to get a new bolt when i go to repco for it as it was missing one. |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 28 Nov 2010 : 6:02:26 PM
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| Personally, I'd take one of your gearbox mounting bolts to somewhere that sells nuts and bolts. You'll find that it will be cheaper, because it doesn't come in a pretty red and white bag with the Holden emblem on it. So long as they can examine the bolt, they can give you one in whatever specification is necessary |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 29 Nov 2010 : 10:56:02 AM
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| yeah that what i was planning on doing. |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 02 Dec 2010 : 9:08:17 PM
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so hopefully (doubt it though) this saturday i should finally be able to de-tank it and get some new vapor hoses. Today i got the tie rod ends and upper support arms for the rear suspension. had to get completly new arms because of the requirements needed to put simple replacement bushes in the existing arms. next week i should be able to get the lower arms and fuel lines and some brake stop squeak for me to do the brakes. One other part that i need as well that they dont have but i cant remember what it is exactly at the moment lol. Also got the other bolt for the trans mount costing me a whole $1. next week or the week after i should be able to go for roady again. fingers crossed.
Oh by the way the whole reason i started this thread reply was to ask about the rod ends. On my old ones they pivvited to a certain degree but these new ones dont appear to at all. i would have thought they they need to move. I might just need to get a bit of elbow grease onto them but i dont want to damage them when i do. any ideas or is this how they should be? |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 04 Dec 2010 : 2:55:52 PM
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| When Holden change something like this, it usually means an improvement. For some reason, it's not just Holden and/or aftermarket manufacturers doing it. Last time I bought a tie rod end, it was in 2000. Admittedly it was for a VH Commodore, but it was "fixed" too; it didn't pivot. I have no idea why, but apparently it's normal. |
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Mr Persistant
P Plater
72 Posts
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Posted - 04 Dec 2010 : 4:07:00 PM
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What? Fixed tie-rods, as in no ball joint on the end? That's not possible, surely? Sure they just aren't really tight ços they're new?
I've looked at what's available on Ebay and they look like regular old tie-rod ends to me. Good price too, $30 for BOTH..
I just had to take my tank out too. That little return pipe that goes in the bottom and feeds the swirl pot for the pump came loose where it goes through the front of the tank, and fuel was dripping and pooling under the car at quite a rate!  Jebus, what next? Radiator repair guy who fixed it advised new, flexible breather hose to protect the top vent pipes. Mine weren't that old, but were already hardened from age and heat...got better, new stuff now.  |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 04 Dec 2010 : 6:22:15 PM
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| ok. so. hmm. i put them in my vice and gave it a small tap with a rubber mallet and after a few back and forward hits it was moving ok. i shall be hopefully putting it on tomorrow because today, what a day, i after a long time drained the fuel tank with my friend and started to remove it. sadly he had to leave to soon so its only half off. We also after much hard work and me breakig a few ratchets, sockets etc removed the front raduis rod bushes and i just finished replacing them no less than 10 mins ago. all day we were working in rian to so that slowed us down a bit. i dont know if i removed the old bushes in the easiest way but we basically dropped the spring/shockie assembily so it was only held in by the brake lines and the sway bar links. what a job to change them both. probably around 3 hours work for both sides. lol. actually thinking about it i should be able to put on the front wheels again tomorrow and change the stands and ramps around so i can do the rear suspension components and the brakes. :) yay much |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 05 Dec 2010 : 8:16:31 PM
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| the weather today was ****, porring down all day basically, but still somehow (no idea how i managed) got in my new steering rack and tierod ends, and finished the gearbox mount (2 bolts lol) AND after quite alot of work dropped the fual tak finally. i thought it would be easier than it was, but i guess i didnt realise how many tubes there were going to it and how much fuel i still had in it, even if almost all the lines were in pieces. the ones i couldnt budge without **** falling in my face i simply cut and decided to replace them aswell. hopefully after work tomorrow i can get started on the rear of car if its not raining again. |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 06 Dec 2010 : 10:02:04 PM
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WHO LOVES SUPRISES??? What about when it comes to your car??? me either.
ANOTHER bloody gearbox leax. i hate the damn thing already and i havent even used it properly. This time i thought it was the gasket again but it turned out to be just above it.
tried to tighten it because i thought it could be a loose conection but no. any ideas???
BTW i did the rear brakes today with the help of mates and will do the front pads only tomorrow. i dont need to get the rotors for the front yet because they still have approx 5000 on them according to the mechanic. |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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Mr Persistant
P Plater
72 Posts
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Posted - 07 Dec 2010 : 8:49:40 PM
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Re sick of the bloody thing > I've had that emotion recently.  I must say, after reading about you working all day in the rain, I don't feel so badly off.  But, Always stay calm when faced with something like this because there's a chance it's not as bad as it first seems - like I think is the case with this g/box selector shaft seal. That should be pretty cheap and easy to fix, afaik. You didn't pull the whole g/box out just for that, did you? 
You could measure the rotors yourself. There are cheap "outside" micrometers on Ebay these days that do 0-30mm. I think minimum thickness on front VN brakes is 22mm - it's stamped/cast into the rotor itself if you can't find it online.
Thing is, if your disks allegedly have 5000 kms left, are you telling me you're going to put new pads on now and in 5000kms time you're going to replace just the disks? FWIW, I've never heard anyone ever say "that disk has xxxxx kms left on it". They are either ON or OVER minimum thickness right now, or after machining, and therefore are 100% okay to go the life of the new pads, or they are under min thickness now and are therefore junk.
You can get new disks delivered to your door via Ebay for $100 these days, which I suspect might be cheaper than getting the damn things machined! Also, the bearings are supposed to be repacked every 2 years or so, which most people extend out to whenever the pads need replacing...point being if you don't repack bearings when doing front brakes, the bearings *never* end up getting cleaned/replaced/adjusted.
Thank god for sealed bearing hubs on new cars these days that did away with all that, although you have to buy a complete hub when they do go bad, which is more expensive.
Anyway, std V6 VN brakes are pretty small and marginal even when maintained 100%...they cannot afford to be any weaker than they already are. It's your call, but I would not be messing around with questionable front disks when a pair of replacements are $100. |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 07 Dec 2010 : 8:56:28 PM
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yeah i got some at repco atm just waiting for me to buy them. just dont need them yet when money goes to more important things. there 90 each though :( but i should get a bit cheaper with racq discount :)
and im not that into brakes yet or still a s**t load of things yet so what do you mean by packing the bearings? you mean stuffing the inside of the rotor with grease behind the dust cap??
and i think the mechanic who said about the 5000 left said thers just enough legal tread of the rotor for about another 5000k. i think . lol
and no im not crazy enough or skilled enough to pull it out yet for some silly little leak which i have no knowledge of how to fix. thats just a google pic. |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 07 Dec 2010 : 9:45:20 PM
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| "Packing the bearings" is a messy job, but pretty easy. You put a thick(ish) layer of grease on the bearing seats front and rear of the rotor, and inside the bearings where the stub axle goes through. It just means packing as much grease that will fit into the space, and wiping off any excess that manages to squeeze out. Just remember to put the back seal on the same way you did with the tailshaft seal; gentle taps with something about the same diameter. |
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Mr Persistant
P Plater
72 Posts
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Posted - 08 Dec 2010 : 01:30:26 AM
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It's not too technical. Costs almost nothing, just messy and time consuming. After doing it once, you'll suddenly love sealed hubs on newer cars.
Every last molocule of old grease should be washed out of bearings & hub, then dried, then repacked with fresh High temp bearing grease..new hub seal (flexible 'rubber' style for early Commodores) just pushes over stub axle with fingers. You just smear inside the hub, but bearings themselves have to be get the grease packed in there. There's better instructions on other forums...
Then you have to adjust it so you just take out all the free-play, without actually putting any preload on the tapered roller wheel bearings.
Fresh grease can actually be contaminated by old grease - I've seen one or two cases the congealed mess that results and it's not working as grease anymore - so you really do have to get all the old grease out before repacking with fresh stuff.
I feel tired just thinking about it...so I'm going to bed. |
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VNSVLE
Forum Moderator
1316 Posts
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baalamb20
Fully Licenced
115 Posts
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Posted - 08 Dec 2010 : 09:41:48 AM
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| Hey mate, I recently got my cog from Able Instruments in QLD, cost me $25 including postage to NSW. it's called a 25 tooth Cog, he has plenty of them, and they are new, the old ones seem to crumble like cheese lol |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 08 Dec 2010 : 6:00:00 PM
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| yeah done the cog and works great. got the two lower control arms today from repco, 130 for both reco'd with new nolothane bushes. the entire underside of my car is bassically nolo. even though its a harsher ride apparently, id rather the harsh ride lasted longer than a slightly better ride failing so much more. also got rear sway bar link bushes and most of the new fuel lines, fuel filter and grease and now im broke :( |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 08 Dec 2010 : 8:29:00 PM
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| quick question. when changing the rear lower control arms with reconditioned ones, these have pre-pressed bushes in the front of them but on the vehicle where the rear part goes, are there bushes inside the solid car part that i hav to replace of are they supposed to be there permanently??? |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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Mr Persistant
P Plater
72 Posts
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Posted - 10 Dec 2010 : 01:35:41 AM
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The front ones are by far the worse for falling apart. They are 'voided' design, not solid rubber. When they fall apart the whole arm can really move around heaps.
I think most people don't get around to doing the rear bushes that control that arm, in the axle housing, cos that is much harder and more time consuming...I have new arms, but have not done the rear bushes in the axle housing. They don't look too bad to me at all, on mine, so they are very low on my 'to do' list. |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 20 Dec 2010 : 6:08:15 PM
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| so its that time again... 2nd attemp at roadworthy tomorrow. wwish me luck |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 20 Dec 2010 : 10:55:32 PM
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| Hope it goes over without so much as one word against it |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 21 Dec 2010 : 6:35:11 PM
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| YAY i cant finally regester my car tomorrow cause it passed today with only a few snags. but it passed so its all great! only took a year |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 21 Dec 2010 : 7:27:33 PM
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| Can we ask what those snags are? I may have a work around to shorten the process |
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voodoo92
Fully Licenced
150 Posts
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Posted - 21 Dec 2010 : 7:31:28 PM
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| oh there only small things mostly. need to get a new (wrecking yard new) plastic part that clips into the back of my vr steering wheel that disengages the indicator. easy as just remove wheel then replace. another is the washers on my new link pins are upside down so they need to be turned around. 3rd is the dodgy wiring for the horn that i can fix when i get some approperate sized heat shrink. and lastly the biggest one is the return hose for the steering rack. i thought i replaced it but i thought it was something else. so that should be relativly easy aswell just take a bit of time. and thats it :) |
Bassist by day, VN nut by night |
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